ISO 6425 says nothing specific about the kind of movement that a dive watch should have, but that didn’t stop Cartier from endowing the Calibre Diver with a superb motor. Its inky black timing ring is rendered in Amorphous Diamond-Like Coating (ADLC) that makes it extremely scratch-resistant and adds a glossy sheen its engraved numbers are painted a luminous white. The bezel, the defining characteristic of any self-proclaimed dive watch, goes beyond the ordinary.
What is new with the Diver is the rotating timing bezel, a steel ratcheting ring with a thin serrated edge for optimal grip and topped with an engraved insert. This casual elegance, equally at home in the office or on a beach, is what happens when a dress watch company builds a sports watch. Most noticeable is the dial, with its oversized Roman numeral XII, the snailed marker track, prominent seconds subdial and bolted-on crown guards surrounding a crown sporting the trademark blue sapphire. The question of why Cartier even needs a dive watch is immediately answered when one sees the Diver this is Cartier’s latest attempt at the style, and rather than just slapping a rotating bezel on a watch and increasing the water resistance, they’ve gone the full nine fathoms.Īesthetically, the Diver shares much with the rest of the broad-shouldered Calibre de Cartier family. So when Cartier, best known for its classic Tank and elegant Ballon Bleu watches, introduced its Calibre de Cartier Diver ($8,200) this year with full compliance with ISO 6425, the watch world took notice.
After all, most dive watches scarcely see time underwater anymore, and there is considerable cost involved to have every watch independently tested for certification. Aside from the obvious water resistance requirement (100 meters, by the way), there are more specific guidelines: the ability to read the time from a distance of 9.8 inches in total darkness, a healthy resistance to salty water, magnetism, shock, considerable tugging on the strap, and many other devious and torturous deeds.īut the fact of the matter is, not many watches are even subjected to the testing required to earn the ISO seal of approval.
ISO 6425 is an international standard that spells out in great and unambiguous detail the criteria for what can be called a “diver’s watch”.
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